1. Purchase and plant bare-root roses, trees, vines, berries and vegetables.
2. Choose and plant camellias and azaleas.
3. Purchase cymbidiums.
4. Purchase and plant cool-season flowers to fill in bare spots.
5. Plant seeds of warm-season flowers for transplants to put out in spring.
6. Continue to plant winter vegetables from transplants and seeds.
7. Many succulents, including cacti, bloom in winter and spring; purchase new types now.
8. Prune deciduous fruit trees.
9. Prune roses.
10. Deadhead azaleas.
11. Mow cool-season lawns. Most warm-season lawns are dormant now and don't need mowing.
12. Begin to feed citrus trees in coastal zones.
13. Treat citrus trees for chlorosis.
14. Start feeding epiphyllums for bloom with 0-10-10 or 2-10-10.
15. Continue to fertilize cymbidiums that have not yet bloomed with a high-bloom formula.
16. Feed cool-season flowers.
17. Feed cineraria.
18. Fertilize cool-season lawns.
19. Water plants according to need (when the rains are not adequate).
20. Irrigate citrus trees.
21. Remember to water plants under eaves where the rains cannot reach.
22. Dormant spray roses and deciduous fruit trees.
23. Dormant spray sycamore trees.
24. Check citrus trees for pests.
25. Pick up dead camellia blossoms to prevent petal blight.
26. Protect cymbidiums from slugs and snails.
27. Control rust on cool-season lawns.
28. Check trees, shrubs, and ice plants in coastal zones for overwintering whiteflies. Control by spraying.
29. Pull weeds.
30. Spray peach and apricot trees for peach leaf curl.
31. Protect tender plants from frost.
32. Stake cymbidium bloom spikes.
33. Near the end of the month, check bamboo in coastal zones to see if it is time to propagate.

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Turn to ‘M’ in Trees and Shrubs (an illustrated a-z of 8500 plants) and before any other listing you will see a two-page full color enlarged photograph of one gorgeous, creamy white Southern Magnolia flower cupped gently and safely above thick dark green glossy foliage. Beholding this picture says it all for the magnolia and demonstrates how this one in particular boldly represents the genus.

There are many, many species and cultivars of Magnolia (hundreds). This tree (and sometimes shrub) originated both in North America and also throughout Asia. Having said that, it is obvious that there will be a species or cultivar available for your climate zone. There are both deciduous species--which lose their foliage for a short time during the dormant season - and evergreen species, which as the word implies, never lose their foliage.

The magnolia genus is an ancient one. We admire the beauty of its flower but this same flower carries with it an interesting history. Its flowers are considered to be “primitive” in the flowering plant world (angiosperms). Apparently because it evolved long, long before bees, the flowers evolved to be pollinated by beetles. To ensure pollination, the flower structure remained simple, not complex. In the center of whorled, large petals stand numerous tall pollen coated anthers. Any nectar-seeking insect, such as the early beetles, accomplished the necessary pollination for this genus.

The Southern Magnolia, which is evergreen and highly fragrant, bears this voluptuous flower. The Southern Magnolia probably exemplifies the best of the evergreen magnolias. This tree is also one of the largest growing of the magnolias, growing broadly to 80 feet or more. Lucky for those of us with smaller gardens, there is a dwarf variety called 'Little Gem' that is considerably smaller and even can be espaliered on a fence or wall.

There are also deciduous species of magnolia, which are quite well represented. The Saucer Magnolia or Tulip Magnolia (M. soulangeana) comes to mind. The flowers are borne on the branches in spring first, before the foliage. There are several cultivars available offering a variety of flower colors from white to pink-purple petals to rosy pink. Another favorite among the deciduous magnolias is the Star Magnolia. Clusters of fragrant white star-shaped flowers will bloom abundantly before the foliage reemerges each spring. Magnolia soulangeana ‘Alexandrina’ is a favorite amongst our customers with its attractive large deep purplish pink and white on the inside flower.

Fall or spring are both good times for planting a magnolia. Remember to consider the ultimate size of the variety that you select when deciding where to place this newcomer in your garden. Magnolias need full sun. If placed into too much shade, the tree may grow to be too leggy, while lack of sun might limit the degree of flowering. Dig a hole at least twice the size of the ball of the new tree, and mix your native soil at least 50-50 with planting mix. Water regularly, but do not over-water. Once established, the water can be reduced. In the spring, feed with a general-purpose fertilizer.

No garden should be without this wonderful tree. Standing alone, boldly displaying its flowers or tucked in with the camellia, azalea, Chinese fringe (Loropetalum), and rhododendrons, the Magnificent Magnolia is a must-have for everyone!

The venerable queen of Europe's historical gardens is unquestionably the rose. Her sovereignty holds sway over all others with an unforgettable aroma, color and elegance. Your garden will bring all others to their knees if you take the chance, and plant these pulchritudinous perfumeries.

Begin by staking out where you plan to place these beauties--literally. Using bamboo stakes will aid you in evenly spacing them. They will thrive in full sun, and well-drained soil. Group them by color, maintaining a harmonious flow throughout your garden by combining them in a proportionate, orderly and congruous manner. And remember that a soil pH level of 5.5 to 6.6 is the ultimate medium for raising a rose garden.

We're discussing bare-root roses today, which are harvested in late fall and early winter after cool weather encourages dormancy. If you are wise, and purchase your roses at the most reliable of sources, a nursery, all of our grade 1 bareroot roses are planted in bio-degradable pulp containers for easy selection.

Roses come in three grades; grade 1 is the best and therefore the most expensive. The requirements for this grade is that the plants must have at least three strong canes, two of which must be at least 18 inches in length for hybrid teas and grandifloras. The canes should be at least 1/8 inch in diameter. Grade 1½ requires at least two strong canes, 15 inches long for hybrid teas and grandifloras, and at least 1/8 inch in diameter. Grade 2 is the least expensive grade, and also the least reliable; they could end up an unwanted gamble. San Gabriel Nursery & Florist only carries grade 1 roses.

The thicker the diameter, the better the plant, no matter from which of the hundreds of varieties you choose. The older cultivars tend to be extremely reliable, still come in a large variety of colors, and are usually more heavily scented.

Soak the bare-root rose plants overnight in a bucket of tepid water prior to planting, for rehydration. Then dig a hole, 2 feet by 2 feet and at least 14 to 18 inches deep. Amend your existing soil with a good rose soil mix like E.B. Stone Organic Rose Grow Planting Mix.

In the center of the hole, firmly pat the earth into a cone. Spread out the rose's roots over this cone, placing the bud union (between the roots and limbs) at the correct level. The bud union is the most susceptible part of the plant, so placement either above or below the soil line is of utmost importance.

If you live in areas with extremely cold winters, bury it about 2 to 6 inches below the surface of the ground for protection. But in milder zones, plant the rose with the bud union about 1 to 1 ½ inches above ground level. Back-fill the hole with additional soil mixture, remembering to gently tamp the soil around the roots. Water well, and why not add a solution of fish emulsion for that little boost?

Your new rose bush should bloom in 8 to 12 weeks. Prior to the first bloom, add two inches of mulch over the entire bed; this will keep the roots cool and moist, conserve moisture in hot weather, and help to prevent weeds from gaining a foothold. As soon as your plant blooms, it is developed enough for feeding with a rose plant food. Liquid is always preferable to granular as it is immediately available to the roots. Feed after the initial bloom cycle and once a month thereafter; cease feeding two months before the first frost.

Now take a break from your labors, and imagine what, in a few short weeks, this bundle of sticks you've just planted will look like. Beauteous blooms will abound, and all because you cared enough to make the effort. Congratulations!

By E.W Forsyth

Gardeners who have learned the glories of picking fresh fruit from their own orchards eagerly await the bare root season to take their list of desired trees to the local nursery. Your first look at the bare root fruit tree that you envision bearing baskets of fresh sweet fruit may be a bit of a disappointment; it won't win a beauty contest. But there is a bonus to buying bareroot. As those smart gardeners know, you get great fruit trees at a price considerably less than a containerized tree.

Unlike evergreen fruits such as citrus, deciduous trees go through a dormant phase during which they lose all their leaves. Whether you're choosing plum, nectarine, pear, peach, pomegranate, persimmon, cherry or quince trees, the safest time to dig these young ones from the field for transportation to the nursery sans soil on their roots, is when they are in a state of dormancy, hence the term "bare root." Planting your trees without soil from a foreign area means that the roots will grow into the native soil, the same soil they will remain in during their life span, thus ensuring a healthier, stronger tree. If your soil is very poor, however, this may not be an option.

True gardeners have learned patience. They will choose the smaller specimens, as the larger the tree the more out of balance will be the root to stem ratio. And while it may be momentarily painful, top that first year bare root off at 2 to 3 feet in height, with no side branches remaining. Doing this means that the scaffold, which is the lower side supporting structural branches, will be lower to the ground, making harvesting and pruning less of a chore. And while we're on pruning, peaches and nectarines will need to be heavily pruned each dormant season; apples, pears, almonds, plums, persimmon and apricots, once they are established, will only require moderate pruning.

It's wisest to ready the planting holes for your trees prior to going to the nursery, so that you can get them into the ground the same day. As with most plants and trees, they like loose soil with good drainage, and sunny locations. If your soil conditions are less than perfect, but the location you've chosen is, why not plant your new additions in a raised bed? This allows you to completely control the soil into which you are placing the trees.

Group trees that have similar spraying needs, and those varieties of fruit trees that require pollinators. Bees and the wind will assist you with this, so how lucky if your neighbors have cultivars that are needed for pollination of your trees!

Your planting holes should be wide rather than deep. A depth the length of the rootstock, or approximately 1.5 feet, should suffice. Put your hands into the earth and form a slight mound. Place your tree on the mound, gently spreading out the roots so that they aren't encircling the tree. Use the native soil, or a mixture if you need to amend, to fill in the hole, and don't fertilize until you see growth on the tree. Once planted, mulch the area around the tree. For the first two years, dilute the fertilizer by half so that young roots do not get burned.

It will take a couple of years before your bare root fruit tree actually bears fruit, but what a relatively short wait for the satisfaction of knowing that you were a part of the growth process nearly from the beginning. And imagine how sweet that first bite of fruit will taste!

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• Fertilize your plant every two weeks after the blooming season with a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer. Continue through August.
• By March or early April, when the colored bracts begin to turn or fall, cut the plant back, leaving 4 to 6 buds.
• Re-pot into a slightly larger container (2-3 inches larger in diameter).
• Keep the plant indoors near (not directly in) a sunny window or outdoors in a morning sun-afternoon shade location. Water and fertilize regularly, and by the end of May you should see vigorous new growth.
• Make sure to turn the plant so that the new growth grows evenly on all sides.
• If you have been growing them outdoors in the summer, when fall comes bring your poinsettia indoors to a sunny location before night temperatures fall below 55-60°F at night. Check for pests and diseases and place the poinsettia in a south window.
• Poinsettias begin to set buds and produce flowers as the nights become longer.
• Beginning October 1, keep your plants in complete darkness for 14 continuous hours each night by moving it into a dark room or placing a large box over it.
• During the day, allow 6-8 hours of bright sunlight. Flowers should mature in 60-85 days.
• Continue this for 8-10 weeks, and your poinsettias should develop a colorful display of holiday blooms!

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